Day 10 to 13 update from Ewan and Al’s cycle across India – they’ve made it!

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Day 10 to Muttom:

A diamond sort of day, sparkling but harder than expected. Al wasn’t feeling great so opted to get a lift to the next hotel.

The route said 2700 ft to climb, 6025 descent. So a fair bit of climbing and then dropping off the hills.

The wind overnight had blown the haze away so everything was much clearer, which contributed to it feeling sparkling.

First I had to come back up the hill we had gleefully descend last night. Then there were a series of valleys to cross. It was warm and the gradients took a bit of effort.

The amount of cultivation reduced and it got drier and clearer with wide views opening up. It was hotter than the last couple of days. At the top of a particularly hard climb I was relieved to find a cafe. I had two masala chai and some peanut brittle.

The road down was good fun. I had to concentrate, rather than it being a relaxing whee. Going from full sun into shadow made it hard to see what the surface was like. The quality was very variable.

In one of the photos you can see the road dropping down the opposite hill side.

Down to the valley bottom and along to the hotel on the banks of a river where Al was well organised and feeling better.

Air con and a cool shower were a pleasant experience.

Day 11: 54 miles.

Al was feeling better today a so decided to give it a go.

Our hotel didn’t do breakfast till 8 so we got on the road and stopped in town. We enjoyed a masala dosa – a thin pancake with spiced potato etc inside.

It was pleasantly cool as we climbed up to our last saddle of the trip. Once we dropped off that it was undulating but the size of the hills reduced as we got nearer to coastal plain.

Some of what I thought was orginal forest was actually mature rubber plantations. Apparently they are tapped every 2-3 days in season and it is quite skilled.

We began to see fields of pineapples as well. The day was hot in the low 30s, and we continued to drink plenty.

We got down to the back waters of Kerala. These are a network of rivers, bays, and canals which are well used in many ways.

Once we arrived at our accommodation we had a shower and went out on a boat cruise around the canals and lakes. It’s a very relaxed way to travel.

Day 12 to the Indian Ocean:

A relaxed day. Only 17 miles.

Back on the bigger roads and in the towns the roads are busier again.

We came to a road junction and directly across we could see the sea. We had crossed India!

On through town on smaller but often busy roads. We saw more tourists than we have all trip.

We stayed in a small hotel on the edge of the beach.

We used the day to relax, walking on the beach and swimming in the luxuriously warm India Ocean.

Day 13 to Kochi:

After a good breakfast on the beach we loaded the bikes for the last time and pushed them through the sand to the road.

On the map the route was 30 miles and was close to the beach, but almost all the way there were buildings and vegetation so we hardly saw the sea.

The roads were busier and some of the driving a bit more agressive.

Kochi is a busy port and also lots more tourists than we have seen since the east coast. We’re glad we spent our time in the more rural areas. We found a good lunch.

There are some impressive older buildings.

In the evening we went to see a Kathakali show.

I am very grateful to Al’s wife, Hannah, for lending me Al for this trip, while she keeps the show on the road with the three children. Thank you.

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We fly home tonight. It will be quite a change in temperature and culture.

It’s been one of my more remarkable cycle trips – so much that is new and enjoyable, so much to see and experience, locals friendly and supportive, beautiful and changing countryside and crops.

I have appreciated your interest and support.